🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.