Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.